This made my life so much easier once I figured it out. I tried many different methods to make the wing membrane, but everything was really messy and increased my triangle count to the point that the file couldn't be worked on. The feature that I had the most trouble modeling was the wings. Modeling the dragon took a long time, and if I had more time I would modify it some more. So I knew I was in for some serious waiting for my larger model.Ĭreature with a nickel for size comparison. My model, which I scaled to ~1in in length, took about 15 minutes to print. On the MakerBot menu I selected "print from SD" and my print job, and then watched the magic begin. I replaced the tape on the MakerBot bed before beginning my job. 15mm layers, 10% infill, and heat settings for ABS), then exported the file to an SD card.
I hit "Make" and used the default settings (2 shells. I used the move menu as well to place base of the object on the MakerBot bed. My file imported really tiny (~3mm long) and flipped on its nose, but those were both quick fixes using scale and rotate in Makerware. Finding none, I imported it into Makerware and set up my 3D print job. stl before importing it to meshlab to check for holes in the mesh. obj export in Rhino and converted it to an. He has some fins and spikes and flat parts (to test how these various features would print), but is also fairly simple. I started modeling my dragon, but after a while I realized that it would be smart to do something simple in Sculptris to make sure that it was possible to convert to the correct file format and 3D print. work with massive brush to effect whole mask area Adds detail to wireframe so doesn't stretch too thin alt with brush to do inverse (alt+e makes ridges instead of creases)
E for crease brush- separates forms a bit reduce mode to get rid of excess polygons, which will smooth out pinches Concept art on page same size as screen so doesn't distort
SCULPTRIS SHORTCUTS SHEET HOW TO
Some tips up front so you don't make the same time-consuming mistakes that I do: check enable under brush for tools when you want to move the clay more dramatically (I spent a few hours trying to figure out how to build up the wings before checking this box and solving my problem within minutes), rotate the object regularly to check that you are modeling what you want to from all angles (I got a lot of strange skewing initially), and a graphics tablet is much more intuitive than a mouse. I enjoy sculpting in clay, and found this interface fun at first, but I ran into some problems with the settings of tools that made my life very difficult. Sculptris's commands are made to resemble sculpting in clay.
SCULPTRIS SHORTCUTS SHEET FREE
After a lot of browsing I settled on Sculptris, a free version of Z-Brush that is user-friendly.
I started by looking at various 3D modeling software, trying to find one that was both good for modeling organic forms and intuitive to use. I decided to stay consistent to the theme that I appear to be settling around in this course: dragons. This was my first time ever 3D printing, so I wasn't entirely sure where to start. The assignment for this week was to 3D print something that wouldn't be possible (or at least would be very difficult) to make using a different CNC machine from this course.
0 kommentar(er)
